I want to start by thanking everybody that made it to the Champagne tasting last night. I had a lot of fun and hope all of you did as well.
I like to follow-up on tastings when possible and announce the findings, favorites, surprise plot twists, updated tasting notes etc.
We tasted three Champagnes from my recent top picks. In final tasting order:
MOUZON-LEROUX (VERZY):
Mouzon-Leroux L’Atavique Tradition Extra Brut, NV- Biodynamic producer Mouzon-Leroux’s L’Atavique is 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay mostly from Verzy with a portion of the wine barrel-fermented and bottled with 3.5g/l dosage. Curiously despite the make up of this wine being very close to the next one, the huge portion of Pinot Noir in this wine did not seem to dominate the profile as it does in the next.
Pale yellow in the glass with brilliant clarity.
Eager aromas of apple, pear, lemon zest, baking spice, lifted delicate floral flowers, a hint of vanilla and a touch of smoke that shifts and evolves.
The wine is vibrant and fine on the palate, medium light in body with crisp acidity and a lovely mineral spine of chalk driving everything forward. The nose transfers well on to the palate with apple, pear, lemon myrtle, and almond brings up the finish which is long (10 seconds +) and dry. (Tasted 12/28/18)
A well made Champagne in a classic Champagne idiom, Champagne lovers will recognize and love this style. If you looked up Champagne in the dictionary this might be what you find. This was the favorite Champagne for the night of about half of the tasting attendees.
93 points
FREDERIC SAVART (ECUEIL):
Frederic Savart “l’Accomplie” Extra-Brut, NV- L’Accomplie is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Contains half each of 2012 and 2011 vintages. Aged in both neutral oak and stainless steel. 5 g/l dosage. In this wine unlike the previous example Pinot Noir dominates the blend on the nose and the palate. Savart Champagnes are known for powerful mouthwatering acidity, focus and unerring precision. This wine does not disappoint. It is the best value in this line up.
Pale straw yellow
Medium to very aromatic in the glass with orange zest, blood orange, hints of kumquat, wild berries, white flowers, ginger paste and marzipan. Quite youthful in a style that is very enjoyable in its youth at the height of its power.
The palate follows the nose closely with a touch of white pepper and allspice added to the equation light in body, very close if not actual perfection in balance. A dry finish of over 25 seconds is very pleasing, long linear and effortless with crisp acidity. (Tasted 12/28/18)
This wine was the favorite of the other half of the tasting attendees. (Mine too although I hate to play favorites) I just thought it was showing the best last night. A classic and impressive display of the power and finesse achievable by 100% Pinot Noir Champagnes despite it being a blend. Very similar to the Fidele wine of Vouette et Sorbee with a slightly finer bead, and a touch less weight. The94+ points
VILMART & CIE (RILLY-LA-MONTAGNE):
Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” Brut, NV-
The Vilmart NV Brut Grand Cellier is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir with 10 g/l dosage.
This wine is still quite youthful and is just starting to develop Vilmart’s Characteristic richness and depth.
Beautifully aromatic suffering from a touch of youthful shyness with the monstrous potential still hiding underneath the surface. More brilliant and pronounced aromatics will be available in the future.
Pale gold in the glass.
Orange zest baking spices golden delicious apple, caramel and vanilla, sandalwood, and deep chalky minerality leaning into crushed clam shell.
The texture on the palate is rich undercurrent that cannot quite overcome the nervous youthful acidity. The acid in this wine is showing more nervousness than many Vilmart Grand Celliers of the past but will be in a “classic Vilmart” stage I would guess in six months to a year. A long dry finish of about 15 seconds is crisp and flavorful. Tasted (12/28/18)
While this wine was not the “favorite” of the evening everybody did like it a lot. It is nowhere near its potential. My advice to “Buy a case of this and drink it over the next 10 years” doubles down for this iteration of Grand Cellier, you will be happy you did. 93 Points
The shop will be open Tomorrow (Sunday) 11-6 and Monday 11-4. For your year-end Champagne and wine needs. Thank you all again and have a Happy New Year!