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Vouette et Sorbee’s Champagnes are a highly sought-after favorite, being among the first Demeter certified producers in the region. Owner and skilled wine maker Bertrand Gautherot has a unique style, focused on extra brut/brut nature, taste, and is recognized as an early adopter of Biodynamic farming in the region. His vineyards in Buxieres-sur-Arce, primarily planted with Pinot Noir, allow him to create distinct and flavorful wines that stand out among the multitude of wines in the area.
Bertrand has been working with Burgundian-trained wine maker Benoit Doussot using secret vineyards, resulting in a Champagne named Clandestine. This wine comes from west-facing vineyards with Kimmeridgian soils above Buxieres-sur-Arce, farmed using organic and biodynamic principles.
Les Semblables is one of two wines produced by Clandestine, and is a Blanc de Noir (100% Pinot Noir). The grapes are harvested by hand, fermentations are allowed to proceed naturally. After fermentation the wines are aged in neutral French oak, then in bottle for an additional 15 months. To retain the purity of these Champagnes they are bottled without dosage, labeled Brut Nature.
Eye: light gold with a fine, vigorous bead.
Nose: Delicate hints of orange, raspberry, white peach, green tea infused with a touch of chamomile flowers.
Palate: Beautifully balanced acidity, the green tea and chamomile came across the palate for me with some flavor but more so, very soft non tannic green tea, hints of wild berry, strong mineral drive fluctuating occasionally between crushed rock and chalk.
Tasted 07/16/20
Les Semblables reminds me of an old 98 Dom Perignon I once had. The connection is textural subtlety. It can be easy to miss what this wine is showing you. While enjoyable as Champagne alone, its real strength is to call you close, bringing attention to the subtle nuances that show up and then disappear only to reappear anew. It will not wow you with power, but rather beguile you, entice you, to seek out the answers to its questions. I found that this wine haunting me after it was gone.
Terroir is king here, the sense of place ever present. The wine lets the vineyard speak for itself, a testament to Doussot’s Burgundian roots and Bertrands complimentary approach and Biodynamic ideals. It is clear that the intended target has been hit, terroir, above all.